INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED -
(the ingredients listed below are used in one or more of the products that we supply).

What exactly are all those ingredients and what is their function? We have devised this glossary below to help you understand. This reveals what we feel is important information that can help you make an informed choice and also reassure you.

ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE - 3 (ARGIRELINE) an anti-wrinkle peptide, which works through a unique mechanism that relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use.

AHA's : Ingredients extracted from various plant sources or milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) these work as water-binding agents. At over 4% and in a pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin friendly.

ALCOHOL : Organic compounds that have a vast range of forms and uses in cosmetics. In some benign forms they are glycols used as humectants and help deliver ingredients into skin. When fats and oils (see fatty acids) are chemically reduced, they become a group of less-dense alcohols called fatty alcohols that can have emollient properties or become detergent cleansing agents. When alcohols have low molecular weights they can be drying and irritating. The alcohols to be concerned about in skin-care products are ethanol, denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol. These can be extremely drying and irritating to skin.
ALLONTOIN: A by-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective anti-irritant
ALOE EXTRACT, (see below)
ALOE VERA EXTRACT: Has been shown to have anti-irritant and soothing properties. In pure form, aloe vera's benefits on skin are probably its lack of occlusion and the refreshing sensation it provides.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS. See AHAs
APRICOT KERNEL: A seed that, especially when finely ground, is a natural exfoliant.
ARGIRELINE: see ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE - 3
ASEFETIDA EXTRACT: taken from a herbal plant from India to prevent the formation of melanin, resulting in a lighter skin color and more even skin tone.

B
BLADDERWRACK EXTRACT: Has a tightening, drying effect on skin
BUTYLCARBAMATE: Preservative
BUTYLENE GLYCOL: An agent which attracts moisture to the skin and retains it.

C
C13-14: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient
CAMPHOR: Aromatic substance obtained from the wood of a southeast Asian tree, Cinnamomum camphora, or manufactured synthetically. When applied to the skin it produces a cooling effect and dilates blood vessels
CANADIAN WILLOWHERB: A 5% extract of Canadian Willowherb has been shown to reduce redness more rapidly than 1% hydrocortisone cream (Herb-A-Clear contains a 5% extract).
CAPSICUM EXTRACT: Derived from a large group of plants consisting primarily of the pepper family, including chili peppers and paprika. These are used as counter-irritants to relieve muscle aches.
CARBOMER: Thickening agents used primarily to create gel-like formulations
CETEARYL ALCOHOL: A fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically.
CETYL DIMETHICONE: Semisynthetic compound derived from a fatty acid and synthetic silicones. Function: Emollient / Moisturiser
CHAMOMILE: Herb that has research showing it to have anti-irritant, soothing, and antioxidant properties .
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE: Considered one of the more gentle surfactants used in skin-care products. See surfactant.
CORUNDUM CRYSTAL (ALUMINIUMOXIDE): a patented formula for optimum exfoliation and cellular rejuvenation.
CYCLOMETHICONE: Silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone. See silicone

D
DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL: See silicone
DEIONIZED WATER: Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance.
DIMETHICONE: See silicone
DIPEPTIDE-2: Helps improve lymphatic circulation and detoxifies skin
DISILLED WATER: Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance.

E
EMOLLIENT: Substances that prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like almond oil, or manufactured, like mineral oil
EMU OIL: An oil extracted from a large bird native to New Zealand. It is a good emollient and water-binding agent and has anti-inflammatory properties
EMULSIFIER: an additive that promotes the formation of a stable mixture, or emulsion, of oil and water.
ESSENTIAL OILS: Group of volatile fluids derived primarily from plants, and used in cosmetics primarily as fragrant additives.
ESTER-C (VITAMIN C): Trade name for a combination form of vitamin C that contains mainly calcium ascorbate
ETHYLHEXYL BENZOATE: U.V. absorber
ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE-EMOLLIENT: U.V. absorber

F
FATTY ACIDS: Typically found in plant and animal lipids (fat), such as glycerides, sterols, and phospholipids. These are used in cosmetics as emollients, thickening agents, and when mixed with glycerin, cleansing agents.
FDC&C RED 33: According to the FDA, when FD&C is followed by a colour, it is certified as safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics..
FRAGRANCE: One or a blend of either volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart aroma and odor to products.

G
GLYCERINE: A viscous fluid derived either synthetically or from plants. It is an emollient, a slip agent, and a humectant ( water-binding agent) and can keep water in skin. Myths about glycerin taking water out of the skin are inaccurate and do this great skin-care ingredient a disservice.
GLYCERYL STEARATE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. Part of a large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents.
PEG-100 STEARATE: PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEG compounds are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
GLYCERYL STEARATE SE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.
GLYCOLIC ACID (AHA): see AHA

H
HESPERIDEN: A bioflavinoid that has antioxidant and water-binding properties for skin
HESPERIDEN METHYL CHALCONE: see above
HORSECHESTNUT SEED EXTRACT : May have anti-inflammatory properties for skin, but it can also stimulate circulation
HYALURONIC ACID: A component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good water-binding agent and moisuriser.
HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL: Used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as binding and thickening agents.
HYDROLYSED WHEAT PROTEIN: Wheat proteins broken down by enzymes or by treatment with acids or alkalis. An agent which attracts moisture to the skin and retains it.

I
IODOPROPYNOL: Used as a preservative in cosmetics. See preservatives.
IRON OXIDES: Compounds of iron that are used as colourings in some cosmetics
ISOPARAFFIN: Waxy, petroleum-based substance. Used as a thickener for cosmetics.
ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: see alcohol
ISOPRPYL PALIMITATE: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient and, as is true for any emollient or thickening agent
ISOSTEARIC ACID: A naturally occurring fatty acid. Function: Binding agent / Emulsifier / Surfactant

J
JOJOBA OIL: An emollient oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils

K
KOJIC DIPALMITATE: see below
KOJIC ACID: An extract of fungi (mushrooms) that has some reported value for preventing melanin production. Kojic acid does have antioxidant properties.

L
LACTIC ACID: An alpha hydroxy acid (see AHAs) extracted from milk, though most forms used in cosmetics are synthetic. It exfoliates cells on the surface of skin by breaking down the material that holds skin cells together.
LAURETH-7: Substances that in various combinations create a wide range of mild detergent cleansing agents called surfactants. See surfactant.

M
MAGNESIUM ALUMINIUM SILICATE: A powdery, dry-feeling white solid that can be used as a thickening agent and powder in cosmetics.
MALIC ACID (AHA): see AHA
METHYL PARABEN: see parabens
MIROCRYSTALLINE WAX: crystal structure wax for binding ingredients

N
NATURAL ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS, see AHA
NEOPENTYLGLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent

O
OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE: A sunscreen agent used to protect primarily from the sun’s UVB rays
OCTYL STEARATE: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient
OIL OF PEPPERMINT: peppermint oil
OIL OF ROSEMARY: rosemary oil
OLIVE OIL CASTILE: An emollient plant oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils
OREGON GRAPE, Oregon Grape is an evergreen shrub and has a proven strong bacteriacidal effect and can be used as a treatment for skin diseases

P
PALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE: see below
PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-3: see below
PALMOTOYL PENTAPEPTIDE -3 (MATRIXYL): It is a fatty acid mixed with amino acids.
PANTHENOL: A substance derived from the vitamin B-complex. It has a thick, syrupy texture with humectant properties. It is also used as an emollient
PARABEN: Group of preservatives, including butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben. They are the most widely used group of preservatives found in cosmetics. It is estimated that more than 90% of all cosmetic products contain some form of paraben. They are considered to cause less irritation than some preservatives.
PEG COMPOUNDS. PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEGs are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
PEG 150 DISTEARATE: PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEGs are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
PEG-100 STEARATE PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEGs are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
PEG-400 PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEGs are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
PHENYLTRIMETHICONE: A silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone
PHOSPHOLIPIDS: Type of lipid (fat) composed of glycerol, fatty acids, and phosphate. Phospholipids are essential to the function of cell membranes by providing a stable surrounding structure. Lecithin and cholesterol are phosopholipids. See glyceryl ester, and natural moisturizing factors.
METHYCINNAMATE: a compound used in many sunscreens . It absorbs ultraviolet light.
POLYACRYLAMIDE: basic type of material used to make gels
PROPYL PARABEN: see parabens
PRESERVAITIVES: Substances used in cosmetics to prevent bacterial and microbial contamination of products..
PURIFIED WATER: Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance
PYRUVIC ACIDS: functions as an antioxidant

R
RED TEA: a powerful antioxidant and a popular ingredient in cosmetics.
RETINYL PALMITATE (VITAMIN A): Retinyl palmitate is an ester of vitamin A.
ROSE HIP SEED OIL: A good emollient oil that has antioxidant properties.

S
SAFFLOWER OIL: An emollient plant oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils.
SALICYLIC ACID: The active ingredient in aspirin. It is used in cosmetics as an exfoliant, and is the only source of beta hydroxy acid (BHA). BHA also has the ability to penetrate into the pore (AHAs do not), and can exfoliate inside the pore as well; it is thus considered effective for reducing clogged pores and breakouts. Because BHA is related to aspirin (both are salicylates), it retains some of aspirin’s anti-inflammatory properties. In this regard BHA is anecdotally considered a good option for those with rosacea.
SEAWEED EXTRACT: Seaweed has antioxidant properties
SILICA: A mineral found abundantly in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as parts of plants and animals. It is the principal ingredient of glass. In cosmetics it is used as an absorbent powder and thickening agent.
SODIUM CAPROYL LACTATE: A semisynthetic compound derived from fatty acids - functions as an emulsifier.
SODIUM CHLORIDE: Common table salt. It is used primarily as a binding agent in skin-care products and occasionally as an abrasive in scrub products.
SODIUM HYALURONATE: See hyaluronic acid
SODIUM SILICATE: A highly alkaline mineral used in cosmetics
SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE: Used to thicken and stabilize cosmetic formulations
SQUALAN: An oil derived from shark liver or from plants and sebum. It is considered a good emollient for skin,
STEARETH 20: Emulsifier / Surfactant
STEARIC ACID: A fatty acid (see fatty acids) used as an emollient and to help keep other ingredients intact in a formulation (see thickening agent). Stearic acid is best known for the "pearly" and "waxy" feel that it adds to your body care products, which ultimately has a cooling effect when applied on the skin.
SULFUR COLLOIDAL: Finely ground sulphur - Antimicrobial (herbs used to rid the body of micro-organisms that have invaded it or act on the skin).
SUNFLOWER OIL: An emollient plant oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils
SURFACTANT. Acronym for surface active agent. Surfactants degrease and emulsify oils and fats and suspend soil, allowing them to be washed away, as laundry products do. Surfactants are used in most forms of cleansers and many of them are considered gentle and effective for most skin types.

T
TEA TREE OIL: Essential oil by steam or water distillation from leaves and twigs - displays a number of remarkable properties making a very effective oil for a wide range of complaints.
THICKENING AGENTS: Substances that can have a soft to hard waxlike texture or a creamy, emollient feel, and can be great lubricants. There are literally thousands of ingredients in this category that give every lotion, cream, lipstick, foundation, mascara, and so on its distinctive feel and form.
TITANIUM DIOXIDE: An inert earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. It protects from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to have no risk of skin irritation.
TOCOPHEROL ACETATE: Vitamin E- Considered one of the more stable and reliable antioxidants used in cosmetics
TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient.
TRIETHANOLIAMINE: Used in cosmetics as a pH balancer.

V
VEGETABLE GLYCERINE: Used to retain moisture and helpful in pulling oxygen and bringing it into the skin. Vegetable glycerine is a natural emollient that adds a cooling effect on the skin and has found itself in most skin care products and soaps
VEGETABLE GUM: A purified natural gum obtained from the acacia tree which is used as a stabilizer/emulsifier.
VITAMIN C: Considered a potent antioxidant for skin
VITAMIN K1: The primary claims for the use of vitamin K cosmetics are to reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes and reduce the appearance of surface capillaries.

W
WILLOWBARK: May have some anti-inflammatory benefits for skin because, it appears to have aspirin-like composition.

Y
YEAST CELL DERIVATIVE EXTRACT: Yeast is a source of betaglucan, which is considered a good antioxidant.
YERBA MATE EXTRACT: Used for the preparation of the most popular tea-like beverage of South America. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties

Z
ZINC OXIDE: Zinc Oxide is a naturally occurring white pigment that has the greatest UV absorption of all commercial pigments available. It is the most effective natural sun block ingredient currently available, adding itself wonderfully to sunscreen recipes also lending itself an "antiseptic" like functionality to creams, and lotions..

Information source::
Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, 6th Edition
Cosmetics Unmasked published by Thorsons, HarperCollins